Category Archives: Madrid Viva La Moda
It’s on a remixed version of Roxanne that Jose Matteos, the gothic inspired designer, presented his collection, entitled “Essence by Matteos”, which could as well have been “Gothic Chic”. Black dominated a collection in which platform leather boots featuring picks (directly inspired by goth fashion) were mixed with classically tailored chiffon black dress or sequined tops. Strange combination? Yes indeed, but in some outfits the result was quite coherent, such as those metal platform shoes worn with a sheer XL sleeves black dress. For some of the outfits though, it will take some more collections to the designers to find the right dose of gothic influence, and the right quantity of chic.
The second brand to present this evening was Sinpatron, literally “without pattern”, presented a high conceptual collections, very avant-garde, though with few pieces that actually had a commercial possibility. Bohemian, deconstructed and playing with accumulations of fabrics, it would be impossible to try to compare them with already existing pieces of clothing such as the shapes differed from what we are used to. Sleeves got lost into a rolling of fabrics, mostly wool, that gave even more volume and added a sculptural aspect. Some great pieces were showed, such as a jersey that mixed wool and sheer on the top and a structured tailored denim oversized coat.
It’s at the emblematic Telefonica Flagship Store of Madrid that the designers presented his 2nd collection, already marking a big step ahead from the first one. In a much more mature, classic and commercial style, the designer presented a collection in which black dominated, accompanied with blue, grey lemon yellow and beige touches.
He chose for men classic tailored outfits, all of them in black: suits, trench coats and sarwell pants. Women presented the outfits wearing Jeffrey Campbell amazing shoes (wedges mostly) and wore floor length long dresses in black chiffon or large black pants that gave a quite cold look to the collection, cheered up by brighter colors on the blouses and shirts presented.
Combining classic and modern fashion in a subtle way, Rabaneda proved with his collection he had understood what was at stake: being capable of creating an original collection that was at the same time very wearable and elegant.
“Park Life”, the Blur song, inspired this new collection, which exuded nature, piece and purity.
On a grass carpet catwalk, the models came in clean lines burgundy, navy, green and graphic prints, some of them wearing chic riding horse like helmets. Ethnical prints were used to create graphic floor length dresses and deconstructed coats, made of wool or satin, either enabling movement, or creating a rigid structure.
Wool was used on some parts of the suit jackets as well as on cardigans. Padded leather pieces in purple tones were added over the outfits, adding relief and volume to a quite straight collection.
A black leather skirts and matching collarless jacket were presented, featuring triangular black leather on the front of the outfit, ending this original collection.
Back in the 50’s: New York, jazz clubs and 5th Avenue, the inspirations of this new collection presented by the inspirational designer for next winter. With the grace of Hollywood actresses, she framed beauty through corset based dresses, accessorized with crystal elements.
Been well known for her corsets, and especially the ones worn by Lady Gaga, the dresses were created around corsets, organizing in function of them. In tones of white, black as the base and also on monochromic outfits in red, emerald green, orange and pink, all the pieces were worthy of a couture show, so much the details and fabrics inspired luxury.
Peeptoes shoes with satin as well as fascinators and flat hats added chic and elegance to the collection as well as a retro touch. The velvet red corset with its long transparent dress was impressive, so was the last corset to be presented, a pale pink on with Swarovski elements.
This real show was accompanied with a background video featuring a 50’s lady, shots of New York, all this with jazzy music: what a great storyteller Maya is.
On the live music mixed by DJ Carlos Jean, this new collection presented by the Cordoba born designer revisited the 50’s, the urban glamour of those golden years, creating romantic lines through pure constructions.
In magenta, black, camel and using touches of blue and green, the collection was made of wool, cotton as well as mohair fur and laces.
Wool knitted blue jacket and siren dress where presented: a texturized approach of usually fluid outfits. Mixing different fabrics on the same outfit, it was amazing to see how the designer succeeded at transposing the same prints from sheer to cotton, from chiffon to organza, unifying the pieces and at the same time provoking a break on them.
White ball stitches and crystal elements were used on the whole collection, on shoulders and bordering lines, touch of glamour in this collection.
Celebrating the first decade of the label, the rising designer presented a collection of an incredible level, surely one of the best that will be seen this week at the Mercedes Benz Madrid Fashion Week.
Presenting daywear and nightwear, this full collection featured perfectly cut pieces, matching the body in an incredible way, but also deconstructed outfits. Oversized clutches were presented with slim pants and XL white blouse, the models presenting the first looks wearing aviator helmets, one of the inspirations for this show. With a grace proper to the 30’s or 40’s, you could only be amazed by the elegance of the collection, even when the looks tended to be more masculine, with large pants or woolly large cardigans.
The simple high heel shoes mixed two or three colors, and featuring some parts in velvet. Cocktail dresses were showed, pearled and decorated with crystal elements. Multi layers voluminous skirts were the last to be showed, ending the show just like it had started, full of originality and grace.
The atmosphere of a jazz club of the 20’s was the one that inspired the designer, who designed her collection in her Barcelona studio, and collaborated with Juan A. Lopez to design the Cuban heel boots presented in pale pink and black.
Inspired by those independent, revolutionary and provocative women, who at the same time recall fragility and elegance, she created a collection in tone of black, magenta, Esmeralda green and nude, a color Teresa always uses in her collection.
Expressing the duality of these women, she mixed textures and shapes, leather and sheer, black leather and green chiffon, leading to a surprising collection in which a straight dress could end up in tulle curves, softening the silhouette.
Black leather dresses and high waist large grey pants gave a masculine touch, while the magenta cape-like coat, transparent black embroidered dresses and feather based outfits restored feminity to the looks.
The final pieces presented were nude cocktail dresses encrusted with crystals and pearl, glamorously ending the show.